Sukau had always been one of the places in Sabah that I had always wanted to go back to, probably because I had some of the fondest memories of it especially when I was still based in Sandakan about 15 years ago. The idea of finally going back to Sukau came up to me in a flash while driving from Lahad Datu to Sandakan, thinking that I had at least a couple of spare days that I could spend somewhere before my work appointment in Sandakan two days later.
I actually wanted to go back to my fav place of accommodation called Sukau Greenview Bed & Breakfast, which was located very much near to the river. There was a restaurant on the edge of the river itself from where I could see the famous Kinabatangan river roaring slowly and graciously past towards the Sulu Ocean on the East coast of Sabah. Unfortunately, they wouldn’t take in any visitor because it was a public holiday WTH. Googling for a place that I could just walk into led me to a place called Sukau Backpackers Bed & Breakfast.
The room turned out to be quite OK, at least for the price that I paid for. Everything was basically there. The only problem was probably the sound proofing, since the room co-joined with another room next door. I could clearly hear the creaking sounds of people moving around and even the conversations of guests that stayed in that room.
The real adventure began the next day. Going down to the river where a boat was waiting, the morning cruise in Sukau certainly served me with some of my favourite scenery in Sabah. Dashing along the river and breaking across the heavy mists which were about to lift off the surface of the river with the golden morning sun rays illuminating through from beyond – it was simply magical. Even the feeling was magical.
The boat kept on dashing away until it turned into one of the smaller confluent rivers where it slowed down, serving us with the opportunity of taking closer views of the riverbanks on both sides. It was the core areas of conservation efforts that are being put in place by the government and a number of NGOs to save some of the very last remaining habitat areas of the fast-diminishing endangered wildlife in Sabah.
A little study on the Google map of the area will how these areas are certainly a left-over of mass deforestation that’s been allowed to go on extensively in the last few decades or so. Sadly though, it is still ongoing despite all the calls to stop it. I guess the siren song of money that comes with deforestation is too loud to ignore and to say no to. Sigh.
Our little intrusion had brought a commotion to the morning serenity of the area, and a group of Proboscis monkeys were the first to welcome us with their tree-hopping skills. We saw Proboscis monkeys of different sizes – from the littlest baby that was clinging tightly to its mother, to the domineering adult male that was the leader of the pack. Then we saw a few more groups until we came across one from what I’d consider the kings of Kinabatangan river – a crocodile!
When we finally had enough, we let the river monster go on its own as we continued cruising further down the river and deeper into the jungle. The river appeared to be narrowing down, until it suddenly opened up to a large natural reservoir of fresh water. It turned out to be to be an isolated lake. The surrounding areas offered even more stunning views, instilling in us the great adventurous feeling of being in the middle of nowhere. The boat continued moving across the lake, until it reached the massive area of floating plants. The boat slowed down before shuddering into a complete stop. Then it was silent and the only sound we heard was the sound from the surrounding nature. It really was such a beautiful feeling.
After spending about an hour or so floating around on the lake, we decided it was time to head back to the chalets. By then the sun was beginning to go hard us I could feel my skin burning and my flesh simmering beneath it.
I’ve seen crocs in an enclosed habitat, like those at the Crocodile Farm in Sandakan, or even in the giant aquarium at the Wild Life Sydney Zoo in Australia, but seeing one moving freely in its natural habitat right before my eyes certainly brought about a different excitement in me. Even the feeling was different. The boatman was careful to keep a distance from it, so it wouldn’t be intimidated by our presence. It didn’t seem to bother much though, as it continued to swim along the river in such a calculated speed, graciously and proudly.
The plan was actually to spend two nights in Sukau but I was met with bad news upon returning to the chalets. I was told that there was a little hiccup in their booking system, that they couldn’t accommodate for me on the second night because the room that I was placed in had actually been booked – which was contrary to what they told me when I first walked in. But then, it was easy to see the reason behind all of the ruckus of course.
They found somebody who could offer a better price for the room, most probably a foreign tourist with better dollars. Based on the comments that I received when I put this up on Facebook, it wasn’t the first time that they did this, apparently. I was supposed to be angry but some how I was not. In fact, all I wanted to do in Sukau was the river-cruising. I would have joined the hunt for Pygmy elephants if I were to stay another night but my close encounters with them in my previous visit to Sukau were enough for me.
I drove out of Sukau feeling happy and contented.
