Mabul

Posted on January 22, 2019 by jipp

Mabul has always been in my bucketlist for as long as I can remember. The first time I initiated a plan to go there was 10 years ago, when I was still based in Sandakan. Sandakan and Semporna – which is the nearest town from Mabul are both located on the East coast of Sabah so I actually had the logistic advantage of visiting Mabul during that time, but as fate might have had it, it never got materialized.

But perhaps it was fate that finally took me Mabul recently, when my job suddenly required me to travel to Semporna, which was the last district in Sabah that I haven’t set my foot in yet, apart from Pensiangan and Tongod (again, I could have easily reached Tongod when I was in Sandakan but I didn’t!).

Upon reaching Mabul, I checked myself in at Scuba Jeff Mabul – which like most other chalets in Mabul, was an extended wooden chalet that stands on the seabed so you can say that they are more like floating (although they are not). When I first surveyed for accommodation in Mabul, I was taken aback by the shortage of cheap accommodation on this island. The most basic of room could easily cost you more than a hundred bucks. Those beautiful resorts that you see on the tourism pamphlets on Mabul are totally out of reach for a budget traveler like me.

So since I was not quite fond of the idea of sharing a room with a stranger (I think I’m past that now. My dorm days are long over. LOL), I had to grit my teeth and paid RM160 for a twin-bed room. The room was very basic. I remember being a student in those days when I’d stay at the cheapest hotel room that I could find in KK so that I could catch my flight back to KL in the wee hour of the next morning. Those rooms would usually cost me around RM25-RM30 at that time. This room that I stayed in Mabul reminds me of those rooms, only this one had cost me a few times over.

There are the twin beds and a fan, and that’s it. I was glad that I had two beds so that I could spread all my stuffs on one of them while I used the other one to sleep on. I’m not sure if this applies to the whole of Mabul but they restrict the electricity to night time only so the fan does not even work during the day when the room turns into a sauna. But then, the idea is to be somewhere else during the day. Besides, most of those that stay at Scuba Jeff Mabul are divers so they’d go out diving during the day so the power rationing is quite justified.

My favorite spot at Scuba Jeff Mabul is the veranda. Overlooking the ocean, I spent most of my time at the lodge lounging around at this veranda from where I could see boats docking in and out or just passing by. Every now and then there’ll be children wheezing by on their creatively crafted boats. They may lack a lot, but they seem to be enjoying life and that alone gives me a different perspective of what happiness is. It certainly is very subjective.

Mabul that I found out is a very small island. A little bit of walk can simply take you to a full circle around the island in a couple of hours – perhaps even less if you walk faster. I think the most interesting thing about Mabul is the fact that it is not just an island made for tourism, but it is also an island that is rich with characters.

For one the shores are dominated by fishing villages and these fishing villages are quite different compared to other fishing villages that I’ve been to. Perhaps, due to its close proximity with Southern Philippines, the culture of the people there is more inclined towards the Southern Philippines. Instead of playing volley ball or takraw, they play basketball. Unfortunately, in all the full 10 minutes of watching them play, I was far from impressed. I think they need some proper coaching if they want to take this MBA to a higher level.

Rubbish obviously is still a very big issue on Mabul island but I can see that efforts are being put in place to tackle this very issue. They’d sweep the streets off rubbish every morning so they look quite clean but I think educating the people is still the best way of getting around to it in a long run.

Those that are spared from the fishing villages are now dominated by beach resorts and chalets. Good thing is, the beaches are still open to public, although most of the facilities are signposted with ‘Only for Guests’.

I would say the beaches on Mabul are very impressive. The white sand has the best of texture – not so fine and not so coarse. It is just nice. As for the resorts, I think a room could definitely take away a big chunk of fortune from whoever is staying at any of these resorts. I would never pay to stay at any of the rooms, unless perhaps, if I was there on a very special occasion, say, a honeymoon. Heh.

I think the biggest highlight of Mabul is the seawater around it. I remember when I went to Perhentian Island and I told my travel buddies that I could not imagine seawater being clearer that it was but one of them was fast to assure me that seawater at Mabul island is definitely clearer. He definitely did not lie when he told me that. The seawater at Mabul island really defines the term ‘crystal clear’ at its best.

Prior to my trip to Mabul, I was told that the sunset view from the island was hard to beat. So I was on one side of the island when I felt the rush to run to the other (side), fearing that I might miss the sunset. To make matters worse, I lost my way and strayed into the residential quarters for the resort workers – but then I was mesmerized by the beauty and rusticity of the area itself. There was something about the area that made me feel like I was in some tropical movie set or something.

The landscape was heavy with coconut trees and the sandy grounds had just been swept clean, probably by the workers themselves. It was one of those places that I just wanted to have a relaxing time in, probably on a swaying hammock. Unfortunately, I could not stay around longer than I wish I could or I’d miss the sunset so I ran back to the beach where I had to re-route my way and managed to find the trail that eventually led me back on the right track.

When I finally reached the beach on the other side, the sunset was already in its full bloom. The sun was in full shape and somehow I felt like it was bigger than the usual size that I had seen at other sunsets. Anything beyond the horizon had turned red and orange and it widened all over the ocean in the form of reflection and I was held to that very moment of beauty until it was too dark to see anything.

I spent my only night on Mabul island lounging around at the veranda of Scuba Jeff Mabul. By then the divers had already returned from their dives, including Jeff the owner of lodge who himself is a diving instructor. He and his staff are some of the friendliest persons that I’ve ever met and it kinda amazes me just how they can stay friendly to people when they have just returned from their day-long dives.

They’d continue lounging at the veranda, playing guitar, singing songs and swapping stories right into the night. One thing that I immediately noticed was that – they really laugh a lot and when they laugh, they laugh heartily. I don’t know what they smoked, but they really laugh. It can be both entertaining and irritating but as long as they are happy then I’d rather respect it for what it is. Happiness doesn’t come by easily to so many people in the world today so it is good that some of them can still be found on this isolated island in the far corner of Sabah.

After doing what I was there to do the next morning, I left Mabul with a little promise to myself, that I’d come back again – hopefully this time to go deep underwater. After all that is what is stated in my bucketlist – going underwater at Mabul and Sipadan.

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Good Bye 2018, Hello 2019

Posted on January 5, 2019 by jipp

So what had I achieved in 2018?

Almost nothing.

One of the most uneventful years in so many years.

For one, after 5 years of student life as a research officer, I returned to the infamous 8-5 routine. Surprisingly, I fitted in almost in no time. In fact, I actually began to enjoy it after awhile. There is something so promising about waking up early in the morning with a purpose – although I’m still looking for a long-term and solid one (purpose). Heh.

Then it was a year of zero traveling – except for one time when I crossed over to Betong for a brief visit to the Piyamit tunnels.

Local-wise, I was more like on a #golocal mission. My new job required me to travel all over the country. I returned to Langkawi where I had a fun and relaxing night at the famous Chenang beach. Perhaps, if there was one trip that was worth to be highlighted, it’d be my snorkeling trip to Tioman. It was my very first time to this island, which was once listed in the top 10 of the most beautiful islands in the world. I enjoyed Tioman very very much I am already planning to return to explore more of it this year.

Then I went to Kuantan where I spent the late afternoon reminiscing my past in Teluk Chempedak, and also to one of my favorite travel destinations in Malaysia – Kota Bharu. My job also took me to my very first trip to Limbang in Sarawak. Instead of going there via Miri which is a more popular choice, the more adventurous part of me demanded that I went there via Labuan so off to Labuan I flew and from Labuan I took a very rough ride across the Brunei Bay. Limbang was more silent than I had expected but I got to see a long lost friend so I enjoyed it nevertheless.

I also returned to Mulu caves – this time with my family. Mulu Caves did not fail me, not on my first visit and certainly not on this second one. In fact, the new routes that they had set up inside some of the caves allowed visitors to explore more corners of the caves. The Clear Water Cave for instance made me feel so much out of this world. It really reminds me of Mordor in the Lord of the Rings where the evil orcs multiply in number under the instruction of Saruman before they were released to hunt down the so-called fellowship of the ring. Heh.

2018 also saw how I slowed down on my climbing adventures. I went to climb Mt. Tombuyukon which is the third highest mountain in Malaysia but to me the most difficult to conquer. I had so much wanted to climb Semeru in East Java as part of my #bucklist but I kept postponing it and before I knew the year was already rolling to its end. I also slowed down on running – very very slow actually. I did register for runs a few times but my lack of training had prompted me to withdraw at the last minute. Of course I wanna change that this year.

I also I failed in almost every little new resolution that I had listed down at the beginning of the year. I highlighted how I should read at least one book a month but even that one went down the drain as well. But of course, just like in past years, I’m gonna bring them forward. It’s a multi-year type of perseverance. Heh.

2018 also saw how I went to the National TV – a guest in a live show once and a recorded one in another (time). It was more like doing a favor for a friend so I’m not gonna go detail about it. I’m not interested in turning myself into a celebrity. LOL!

Then of course I wrapped up the year by attending Guns n Roses’ Not in This Life Time concert – something that I had never thought I could ever do after the famous Axl-vs-Slash fallout. Attending it means I had finally accomplished my biggest dream in music which is to watch Metallica, Bon Jovi and Guns n Roses LIVE in action.

So that was about it. 2018 didn’t really have anything worthy to shout about. But I intend to change that this year.

Fingers crossed!

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Not in This Lifetime TOUR

Posted on November 25, 2018 by jipp

I have always been a super big fan of Guns n’ Roses. I’m not sure how exactly it started, but their songs were like all around me when I was at the university. I remember buying their famous Use Your Illusion posters and putting them on the wall of my tiny hostel room. Then I’d buy their albums, back then in cassettes, and I’d listen to their songs on my earphones over and over and over again until my ears hurt, usually while preparing for my upcoming exams. From their most upbeat songs such as Welcome to the Jungle and Sweet Child O Mine to the mellow(er) November Rain, Patience, Don’t Cry – you name it. They were super big back then and they definitely still are to certain extent.

I had always wished that someday I’ll have the chance to attend one of their concerts – be it in Malaysia or anywhere else. I would say, my biggest influences in music came from three rock bands – which were all super big back in the 90’s – namely Bon Jovi, Metallica and Guns n Roses. I was very very lucky when the first two came to KL, but of course I needed the last one to come so that I could complete the list.

My lifelong dream was almost shattered to pieces when two of the most iconic figures in the band – Slash the main guitarist who is known for his iconic hair that leaves his face to anyone’s guess, and Axl Rose the singer itself – fell out with each other in what was considered one of the most famous fallouts in the history of rock music world. They went separate ways, breaking the hearts of so many fans across the globe including me, and I had to come to term with the probability of – well – putting my dream of attending their concert behind and moving on with my life.

But when the news that they were reuniting on a world tour broke, I almost cried in relief. And when KL was listed in their tour schedule, I was ecstatic. I mean, who would have thought that something that I had almost completely given up on returned to me in a form of reality? It was almost too good to be true.

So November 14, 2018 was the day. The venue was Sunway Lagoon, which was opposed by quite so many people for reason that I myself could not quite understand. A friend of mine that I was supposed to go to the concert with decided not to come in the end, reasoning that it would not be worth it because we’d be too far from the stage, unless we bought tickets for the front rows, which would cost us a few times over. What he didn’t know was that – the lagoon is very wide and it gives a lot of space for the crowds to spread out and maintain a good distance from the stage. Even better was that, the ground is quiet slopey so it gives the audience a good view of the stage, even for later-comers who had to stay at the far back.

My only complaint was probably the way they handled the entry of the concert-goers. The queues were crazy long and Malaysians being Malaysians some of them would sneak in and jump the queue, dragging the queuing to even longer. Setting up more entrances would have significantly cut down the queuing time. Once inside, it was still quite a long walk towards the venue and quite true to one of their biggest hits, November Rain came pouring down even before the concert started. I decided to embrace the rain with open arms and I actually began to enjoy it before long.

Being there watching one of the groups that were so much a big part of my life perform, it was such a magical moment for me and the rain just made it even more dramatic. To tell the truth, it was my first time attending a concert on my own without any companion, and quite to my surprise I actually enjoyed it very much. I guess all the solo trips that I did in my years of travelling had resonated so well in me now that I am beginning to enjoy coming to a place or event on my own. I found myself smiling and singing along with Axl who at 56 still very much got it (my gawd!). Slash of course still shimmers with his amazing skills around his guitar so much so that one of the strings actually snapped off while playing an instrumental.

My only regret was probably my phone, which was not functioning well in the rain despite being so-called water-resistant. I was recording the moment when Slash was doing the (main) theme song for the movie The Godfather which happened to be my favorite movie of all time, and my heart was exploding in excitement because never had I ever thought that I’d get to see Slash perform the song, definitely NOT IN THIS LIFETIME but there he was, pulling it off right up there on the stage and in my presence! It was so damn surreal.

But then my phone suddenly restarted by itself, probably because it was confused with all the touches imposed by the rain on the screen. When I tried to play it again after the concert, the file was still there but it would not play. It was probably corrupted and damaged by the sudden restart. But then, I wouldn’t kill myself for that. Of course somebody must have recorded and posted in on youtube by now but just to think that I was there watching it live makes me cringe in sheer elation every time.

Despite enjoying the concert so much, I actually didn’t stay to the last song. It was a weekday so getting stuck in the jam and reaching home at 2 in the morning when I had to be at work early the next morning was definitely the last thing that I wanted to be. Guns n Roses definitely did not disappoint me. They performed most of their big hits and what amazed me most was that they did not even take a break, not a single one. It was the most continuous concert that I’ve ever been to and I really wonder where they got all the energy from when all but the drummer was well over 50.

I would say – without any prejudice – that it was the best concert that I’ve ever been to so far, probably rivalled only by the one by Linkin Park (the one in 2003, not in 2013 which I didn’t quite enjoy somehow). I loved every moment of it and most of all I’ve finally completed the list of attending the concerts of the three mega rock bands, namely Bon Jovi, Metallica and Guns n’ Roses, my biggest music influences in life. I think I can finally die in peace. Heh.

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A Road Trip to Betong

Posted on October 14, 2018 by jipp

So I’ve just returned from a road trip to the far North of the Malaysian Peninsula, to a small town called Baling in the Malaysian state of Kedah. It was my first time traveling to that corner of Malaysia, although the furthest I went last time was Lenggong to check out the latest site in the country to be inscribed on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Reaching Baling at night, we checked in at a hotel called Hotel Bayu where I had a full view of the beautiful Baling Hill from the window of my hotel room. The plan was to climb up the hill, which I was told would serve climbers with beautiful view of Baling town from the peak. Unfortunately, we woke up the next day to a heavy rain so the plan had to be scrapped. After doing what we were there to do, we drove over to Pengkalan Hulu before crossing over to Betong in Thailand. It would be my very first time driving into Thailand so I was quite excited. It was something that I had always wanted to do but never got around to doing it – not until this one.

The process was quite simple. You first need to drive through the gate on the Malaysian side – where you need to show them your car registration card (also known as car grant of course), and they’ll register your car plate number on a log book. Then later near the gate on the Thai side, you need to park your car and come to the counter to fill up forms – one for the car and another for your entry. Somebody is there to help fill up the forms for you – with a little bit of charge of course – and all you need to do is to hand over to them your passport and car registration card.

Then you need to bring the forms to the immigration counter where the forms will be stamped, together with your passport. Now mind to tell you that there is a little slip of paper that they’ll tuck in your passport and you really don’t want to lose this paper. They’ll ask for that paper when you return to check out, and they’ll charge you some RM1k (according to the Malaysian personnel that registered the plate number of my car) if you don’t have it with you. The Thai officers wouldn’t tell you that – and of course we all know why.

Done with the stamping, we drove on through the gate and voila – we were in Thailand. The change of environment was almost immediate. Even the air felt so different to my lungs (heh). There were suddenly the familiar Thai architectures everywhere – the fancy gates, the giant posters of the King and Queen of Thailand, the convoluted Thai abugidas and the most noticeable one is the motorcyclists not wearing helmets.

We reached the town center of Betong almost in no time and were surprised to see how quite the town was. Having lost the phone coverage by now, we found ourselves totally disoriented. Thinking that we couldn’t go anywhere without the help of Google map, we bought a sim card from some random tele shop for RM20. With the internet back in the phone, we were ready venture on.

The first place that I had in mind was the Piyamit Tunnels. It was a place that I had always wanted to go. Following the instructions on the Google map, we were led across rubber plantations, a series of beautiful villages with ancient-looking wooden houses, then further on into the lush greenery of a hilly forest. By then it was beginning to drizzle and by the time we arrived at the gate to Piyamit Tunnels, it was raining cats and dogs.

After buying the ticket at the counter for RM8 (Malaysian currencies are generally accepted all over Betong) per person, we ventured into the forest to see for ourselves the tunnels that were used by the Communist insurgents during their guerilla campaign against the British Malayan armed forces (which was later joined by a range of Commonwealth armed forces) – a campaign that lasted for 5 decades.

Walking along the concrete walkway towards the tunnels, I could see why the place was handpicked by the Communist insurgents to be their base for air raid shelter and storage of food supplies and probably weapons. Located on a hillside, hidden among the hills with lush forest (but a quick look at the Google Map shows that it is now surrounded by farms and the forest where the tunnels are is merely a sort of a left-over) with a steady stream of water coming down to it from the surrounding hills, the location and geographical settings of the place were just perfect for militant activities.

The fact that it was so well maintained and the forest was almost intact caught me by surprise. Going to the tunnel complex and back turned out to be a bit of a hike, but it really was a nice hike. The walkway was nicely roofed so I put my umbrella aside so that I could enjoy the hike even more.

At the main entrance of the tunnels is a mini-museum. A soft-spoken old man was there to explain a little about the tunnels – and I was so impressed at how he did it in Malay. It was broken Malay, alright, but very much understandable nevertheless. Inside the museum was a display of an assortment of clothes, tools, devices and even weapons used by the Communist insurgents while undergoing militant training and probably during their militant operations.

Pictures depicting the lives of the insurgents at the shelter are plastered all over and my attention was especially caught by the pictures of them building the tunnels. They looked very manual and they actually had beautiful ladies helping them out. That probably explains as to how they managed to stay hidden in the tunnels for so many years. Heh.

Even the tunnels are so well-maintained. I’m not sure if they are of the original sizes or have already been widened to provide easier access to visitors but for sure they are much more spacious than the Chu Chi tunnels in Vietnam. They seem to have just about everything down there. In fact they could go inside the tunnels without having to go out in the open for months provided they’ve got enough supply of food and water of course. They even have a quite sophisticated furnace system that minimizes the release of smokes so that they will not be detected by enemies.

By the time we had made it to the exit (one of the 9 exits), the rain had already worsened. In fact, it felt more like a storm. Since I already had mine, the old man handed an umbrella to each of my companions and we walked back to the gate on a different track (not roofed). I must have walked about 30 yards when I suddenly felt like running back to the old man and gave him a little bit of token of appreciation. He seemed genuinely surprised when I handed over twenty bucks to him even though I wish I could have given him more.

The concrete walkway led us past what is called the Thousand Tree. It is more like a stack of Strangular figs that have overgrown into each other, forming a giant cluster of trees. They look very ancient and it would only be days later that I found out that the ‘thousand’ is actually referring to their age. I wish I could stay there longer but the rain was going really mad and I couldn’t help but getting a little bit worried that the walkway might get flooded at any time now and I’ll be stuck in the forest – alone. Somehow I felt relieved when I managed to make it back to the gate where my two friends had long been waiting.

Still raining so heavily without any sign of slowing down, we pulled out of the Piyamit Tunnels park area and headed back to Betong. By then it was already dark so after parking the car at some random spot, we entered the first Halal restaurant that we bumped into. Overlooking a busy junction, the restaurant was at a perfect location from where we could watch the world go by in Betong. Since it was a halal food restaurant, I didn’t expect much from the food. Thailand may be considered the food capital of the world by many but I’m quite sure that refers more on non-halal food.

We wrapped up the night by doing a little bit of shopping. Unfortunately, shopping in Thailand for Malaysians are not as affordable as it probably used to be. With the Ringgit weakening for more than a year now, I found the prices of stuff to be quite expensive. Luckily I found some left-over of my Bahts tucked deep in my travel pouch – those that I didn’t get to spend during my previous trip to Thailand – so I used them to buy a few stuff.

Despite the less attractive prices on offer, even after hard negotiation, we actually found ourselves rummaging through things up until the very closing time. The best thing about Betong is the fact that most of the people there could converse in Malay so negotiating the prices should be much easier for Malay-speaking Malaysians.

Re-entering Malaysia was easy-peasy. By then it was almost 10pm so the gate was almost deserted. We parked our car at the now deserted carpark and walked over to the counter where a sleepy immigration officer was waiting to stamp any passport that probably comes his way.

The only time we got stopped was at the custom check where a group of all-female officers asked if we had purchased anything from Betong, or Thailand for that matter. One of them craned her head out to see what that was to see inside our vehicle. Of course there was nothing much to see but those clothes that we bought back at the shop in Betong. Later at the gate on the Malaysian side, the uniformed personnel didn’t even bother to stop us. We were back in Malaysia before we knew it.

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Getting Nostalgic at Teluk Cempedak

Posted on September 10, 2018 by jipp

My job required me to travel to the east coast recently, to Kuantan to be exact. It is a town that is so nostalgic to me, as it is the town that I had spent two years of my life trying to pursue for – well, to put it simply – a better life. Coming to Kuantan at the young age of 16 – alone, because my family couldn’t afford to come with me – it was my very first trip out of my home state.

Somehow though, I felt like I had anticipated it all, and that it was just meant to be and things just fell into place in no time at all. I still can’t believe how I did it, or where all the guts came from, but I just did it. And that one trip had definitely altered the course of my life forever.

It would be my third time coming to Kuantan since I said goodbye to it on my last day at school more than 20 years ago, and the emotions were still there, although not as intense as they were when I first returned. I didn’t go to my ex-school this time. Instead I went to Teluk Cempedak, a beach that was just as nostalgic as the town of Kuantan itself.

I remember how I used to go there a lot when I was still schooling at MRSM of Kuantan which was not that far from the beach itself. As a Catholic among the mostly Muslim hostel mates, I had the privilege of being allowed to go out to the town twice a week, while the rest were only allowed once.

The reason? I needed to attend the Sunday mass. I remember how the school guard would hastily hand the log book to me when I told him that, without any further questions at all. I guess asking questions when the reason was to go to church would make him feel bad and disrespectful.

I’d usually go to church and before I returned to the hostel, I’d take the bus to Teluk Cempedak to spend a few hours at the beach. I had always been fascinated by Teluk Cempedak. I remember how I was so wowed by the big brownish-greyish boulders that graced the beach.

There was already a walkway along the shore that led up to another beach where there were more and bigger boulders. Back then it was still wooden, and now it has been replaced with iron walkway. It is much easier to walk on it now, and is much wider than I remember it was back then.

Perhaps the only challenge now is the existence of so many monkeys (whose presence in those days I can’t quite recall). I guess they are so used to having humans around and walking past them now, although they can be quiet intimidating. But seriously, I’d like to say that they are part of the attraction of Teluk Cempedak. They really are.

So the now iron-walkway led me to the other beach, which is now called Teluk Tongkang. I walked across towards the end corner of the beach, which was my favorite spot in the whole of Teluk Cempedak. The landscape is dominated by a stack of giant boulders which was a combination of brown and grey in color.

This part of Teluk Cempedak never failed to wow me every time. I mounted one of the boulders, and was instantly taken aback by how struggling I was in doing it, when back then it didn’t even break me a sweat. I guess age really is catching up with me now. Some things are better off being swallowed in in acceptance, no matter how bitter they might be. Heh.

So there I was, on top of the giant boulder, the very same boulder that I’d go to to enjoy the beautiful view of Teluk Cempedak when I was 20-plus years younger. Quite true to its name (Teluk means bay in English), the beach spans out into a curve that forms a bay. I was so glad that the forest that separates Teluk Cempedak from the township area of Kuantan was still very much preserved and I remember how I used to go hiking to that very forest and enjoy the view of the whole bay from there.

It was on this boulder that I’d put my backpack to be my pillow where I’d rest my head on while enjoying the beautiful view of South China Sea. Being away from the family at such a young age, it was not quite easy for me. Knowing that on the other side of the ocean was Sabah where my whole family was, I’d like to think that whatever little words that I said would make it across to them.

Of course they never did but I just needed some comfort at that time so it was alright (that they didn’t). LoL. I remember how the sound of the ocean would lullaby me into a nap sometimes, and would be woken up by either the cooling breeze (temperature drops as the sun goes down) or the presence of people in the vicinity. Then I’d go back to the bus stop and catch a bus back to my hostel.

So Teluk Cempedak would forever be nostalgic to me. They are just so much memory of my younger days that is entwined to it.

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